South Korea

Day 1: South Korea, finally!

We’re finally in South Korea!

We’ve been wanting to explore this country for years, and although this is our first proper visit, we’re not entirely unfamiliar with one very important aspect of Korean culture: the food. Back home, we’re fortunate to have plenty of excellent Korean restaurants, bakeries, dessert shops, and supermarkets, which we’ve happily frequented in the name of cultural immersion. We even attempt to cook Korean food ourselves, with varying degrees of success.

Over the next two weeks, we’re looking forward to discovering South Korea’s history, architecture, landscapes, and traditions. And, of course, its cuisine. We’d be lying if we said food wasn’t one of the things we’re most excited about. In that department, at least, it feels like we’ve been preparing for this trip for years.

We arrived at our Airbnb in Seoul late at night, but our first encounter with traditional Korean architecture was waiting for us. We’re staying in a hanok, a traditional Korean house built around a courtyard, tucked away in the narrow alleys of one of the city’s historic neighborhoods. Ours has been beautifully renovated, preserving its original character while incorporating modern comforts. We love the minimalist aesthetic, the natural materials, and the thoughtful juxtaposition of old and new. There’s something special about staying in a house with so much history, particularly in a city as modern and dynamic as Seoul.

It’s only our first night, and we’re already charmed. We have two weeks ahead of us, a country we’re eager to discover, and the wonderful feeling that we’re just at the beginning of something memorable.

• Accommodation: Hanok Airbnb

Day 2: A city of contrasts

Our first full day in Seoul began at Changdeokgung Palace, built in the early 15th century and used as a royal residence and seat of government during the Joseon dynasty. Behind the palace lies the beautiful Secret Garden, once a private retreat for the royal family, with tranquil ponds, elegant pavilions, and wooded paths glowing with autumn colors.

Visitors wearing hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, receive free admission to the palace. It was wonderful to see so many people dressed in colorful, flowing garments, bringing the historic setting to life.

For lunch, we headed to Gwangjang Market, one of Seoul’s oldest traditional markets. Exploring food markets is one of our favorite things to do when traveling, and this one was exceptional. As we wandered through the narrow, bustling lanes, we were almost overwhelmed by the possibilities. “We’re definitely coming back for that! And that too!”

We sampled bindaetteok (crispy mung bean pancakes), tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), and yukhoe gimbap (seaweed-wrapped rice rolls filled with beef tartare). For dessert, we tried ssuk chapssaltteok (chewy mugwort rice cakes filled with sweet red bean paste) and bungeoppang (fish-shaped pastries filled with custard). Everything was delicious, but the beef tartare gimbap stole the show. We couldn’t possibly try everything that caught our attention, but fortunately, we have plenty more meals ahead of us!

In the afternoon, we visited Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a futuristic cultural complex designed by Zaha Hadid, an Iraqi-British architect whose work we’ve long admired. Its sweeping curves, metallic exterior, and striking white interiors seem almost otherworldly.

From a centuries-old royal palace to a bustling traditional market and a building that looks like it belongs in the future, Seoul certainly knows how to mix old and new!

Day 3: Traditional Seoul, from palaces to street food

We started the day exploring Bukchon Hanok Village, the historic neighborhood where we’re staying. We especially enjoyed visiting the Traditional Culture Center, where we learned more about hanoks, or traditional Korean houses. We’re so inspired by their beauty and ingenuity! We love their use of natural materials, their beautifully landscaped courtyards, and the way they blend harmoniously with their surroundings. And their ingenious underfloor heating system, the ondol? Pure genius, and centuries ahead of its time!

Next was Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest of Seoul’s five royal palaces and the principal palace of the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395, it was the symbolic heart of the kingdom, housing the royal family and hosting important government ceremonies. There were far more visitors wearing colorful hanboks than at yesterday’s palace, making the magnificent setting especially photogenic.

We also watched the changing of the royal guard at the palace’s main gate. With elaborate uniforms, traditional weapons, drums, and flags, the ceremony recreates the changing of the guards who protected the palace during the Joseon dynasty. Quite a spectacle, and considerably more colorful than your average shift change!

Lunch was another highlight: delicious grilled marinated beef short ribs, accompanied by mushrooms and chewy rice cakes.

In the evening, we headed to Myeongdong Night Market, where the streets come alive with food stalls. We grazed our way through an assortment of Korean treats, including gyeranppang (egg bread, with a whole egg baked into a fluffy little loaf), grilled chicken skewers, and several varieties of dumplings. The egg bread was a particular highlight: slightly sweet, warm, and super fluffy.

Three days into our trip, Seoul continues to impress us with its history, traditions, and, inevitably, its food!

• Grilled marinated beef short ribs: K Galbi Myeongdong

Day 4: Ancient tombs and royal treasures

Today we took the train from Seoul to Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom, which ruled much of the Korean Peninsula for nearly a thousand years (between 57 BC and 935 AD).

Our first stop was Daereungwon Tomb Complex, a beautiful park dotted with enormous grassy burial mounds containing the tombs of Silla kings, queens, and nobles. Most of the tombs remain sealed, but one, Cheonmachong (the Heavenly Horse Tomb), was excavated in the 1970s and is now open to visitors. Inside, we could see the burial chamber and displays of the remarkable treasures discovered there, including elaborate gold jewelry, a royal crown, and an ancient painting of a flying horse.

After exploring the tomb, we wandered through the park, marveling at the other enormous mounds and imagining all the treasures that might still lie buried beneath them. What an extraordinary place!

The culinary highlight of the day was braised beef short ribs, tender and wonderfully flavorful, which we enjoyed wrapped in fresh lettuce and fragrant perilla leaves. Absolutely delicious! This is one dish we’re determined to learn how to make at home.

The place we’re staying in Gyeongju is very different from our hanok in Seoul, but also very cool! It’s a small, minimalist apartment with clean architectural lines and an enormous spa-like bathroom. The centerpiece is a huge sunken soaking tub, surrounded by beautiful blue-green tiles. We can’t wait to indulge in a long soak!

• Braised beef short ribs: Geosong Galbijim
• Accommodation: PBr7

Day 5: Buddhist treasures of the Silla Kingdom

Today we visited Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple, two magnificent Buddhist sites dating back to the 8th century, during the golden age of the Silla Kingdom. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Seokguram Grotto is an artificial cave built into the slopes of Mount Toham, housing an impressive granite Buddha surrounded by intricately carved figures of Buddhist deities and disciples. Nearby, Bulguksa Temple is a beautiful complex of traditional wooden buildings, stone pagodas, and elegant stairways and bridges, designed to symbolize the Buddhist paradise.

There was something wonderfully peaceful about exploring these ancient sites, with the gentle chanting of Buddhist monks drifting through the air. The best way to take it all in was to slow down and let ourselves be immersed in the serenity of the surroundings.

Our culinary discoveries continued with haemul pajeon, a delicious crispy seafood and green onion pancake, and kkomak bibimbap, made with ark shells, a type of small, chewy shellfish similar to cockles. Unlike the familiar bibimbap we eat in Seattle, this version was served on a large, shallow platter, with the seasoned shellfish and vegetables spread across it. We mixed in the rice ourselves and enjoyed the result wrapped in dried seaweed. So good!

• Haemul pajeon and kkomak bibimbap: Hyanhwajeong

Day 6: From traditional Gyeongju to lively Busan

We started the morning exploring the traditional hanok neighborhoods of Gyeongju, wandering through the streets and admiring the beautiful old architecture. We just can’t get enough of these houses!

We stumbled upon a little shop making fresh injeolmi, a traditional Korean rice cake made by steaming glutinous rice, pounding it into a smooth, stretchy dough, and coating it in roasted soybean powder. Eric was invited to try his hand at pounding the rice with a large wooden mallet, then the shopkeeper expertly shaped and cut the finished dough. We tried two varieties, plain and mugwort, both incredibly light, pillowy, and delicately flavored, with just the right amount of chewiness. We’ve had plenty of injeolmi in Seattle, but nothing quite like this. Apparently, the secret ingredient is having Eric do some of the work!

In the afternoon, we took the train to Busan, where we’re staying in another beautiful, modern, minimalist room. We headed straight for Haeundae Beach, where the weather was perfect: warm sunshine tempered by a refreshing sea breeze.

It was Saturday evening, and the beachfront was buzzing with activity. We encountered a fashion show, a boxing competition, a huge barre class on the sand, and live music everywhere. Friends gathered on the beach, children played on the slides, and people strolled along eating ice cream. It was wonderful to see so many people enjoying the outdoors.

We continued along the Dongbaek Island walking trail, a peaceful coastal path where the gentle sound of waves provided a lovely contrast to the lively beachfront.

Our other culinary discovery of the day was mini gimbap, little seaweed rice rolls that we tried with beef bulgogi and seafood fillings. Delicious, and dangerously easy to keep eating!

From Gyeongju’s quiet historic streets to Busan’s vibrant waterfront, it was quite a change of pace — and a lovely introduction to our next destination.

• Accommodation: UH Continental CenterPoint
• Mini gimbap: Haeundae Bada Gimbap

Day 7: Seaside temples, colorful villages, and seafood

We started the day at Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, often described as one of the most beautiful Buddhist temples in South Korea. Unlike most Korean temples, which are tucked away in the mountains, this one sits dramatically on the rocky coastline, overlooking the sea. With its colorful buildings, elaborate statues, and spectacular ocean views, it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. And popular it certainly was! The crowds made it a little less peaceful than the temples we’d visited in Gyeongju, but we thoroughly enjoyed exploring it nonetheless.

Next, we headed to Gamcheon Culture Village, a fascinating neighborhood of brightly painted houses cascading down a steep hillside. The colorful buildings reminded us of La Paz, Bolivia, although the two cities are worlds apart! The village grew during the Korean War, when refugees settled here and built modest homes along the narrow, winding streets. In 2009, an urban regeneration project brought artists and residents together to transform the neighborhood with colorful murals, sculptures, and art installations. One of its most beloved residents is the Little Prince, whose statue overlooks the village alongside his fox. The curious little traveler, discovering beauty in unexpected places, is a fitting symbol for a neighborhood that has reinvented itself. We loved wandering through the maze of alleyways, discovering artwork around every corner.

Our final stop was Jagalchi Fish Market, one of Korea’s largest seafood markets and a Busan institution. Spread across a bustling waterfront area, it’s packed with stalls displaying an astonishing variety of fish, shellfish, and other creatures from the sea, many still swimming in tanks. It’s a fascinating glimpse into Busan’s maritime culture, although we couldn’t identify half of what we were looking at!

Busan is famous for its seafood, so we decided to embrace the local cuisine wholeheartedly. It was an all-seafood day, featuring grilled eel and grilled mackerel, both delicious. After spending the afternoon admiring the extraordinary variety of marine life at Jagalchi, we felt it was only fair to sample some of it.

Another wonderful day, with three completely different sides of Busan: its Buddhist heritage, its creative reinvention, and its enduring connection to the sea.

• Grilled mackerel: Busan Tteun Mackerel Haeundae Branch

Day 8: A culinary highlight on Jeju Island

Our last meal in Busan was an abalone crispy rice bowl, a delicious finale to our seafood adventures. Then we flew south to Jeju Island, a volcanic island famous for its dramatic landscapes, distinctive culture, and seafood traditions.

Our first stop was a restaurant serving Korean Buddhist temple-inspired cuisine. Traditionally vegetarian, temple cooking also avoids pungent ingredients such as garlic and onions, instead relying on vegetables, grains, mushrooms, and fermented ingredients to create wonderfully complex flavors. And what an extraordinary meal it was! Everything was absolutely delicious, from the spicy acorn jelly salad to the fragrant lotus-leaf rice and beautifully prepared vegetable side dishes. The simplicity of the ingredients made the depth of flavor all the more remarkable.

Temple cuisine was something we’d been especially eager to experience. Before traveling to Korea, we watched the documentary series “The Philosopher’s Kitchen: Jeong Kwan,” featuring the cooking and philosophy of Buddhist nun Jeong Kwan. We found it incredibly inspiring and knew we had to experience this culinary tradition for ourselves. We wholeheartedly recommend the series to anyone with even a passing interest in Korea, food, or Buddhist traditions. Fair warning, though: it may inspire you to plan an entire trip around dinner!

We ended the day by checking into our beautiful Airbnb in Seogwipo, on Jeju’s southern coast, where we received a wonderfully warm welcome from our super-friendly host, Jun. A lovely beginning to our time on the island!

• Abalone crispy rice bowl: UH Continental
• Buddhist temple-inspired cuisine: Dasoni
• Accommodation: Jeju Airbnb

Day 9: Sea women, volcanic landscapes, and black pork

When we watched the documentary The Last of the Sea Women in 2024, we were so moved that it inspired us to visit Jeju Island. The film tells the story of the haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary female divers, many now elderly, who harvest seafood by hand without scuba equipment. These are the original freedivers, and we have enormous admiration for them.

So when we discovered an Airbnb hosted by a haenyeo (sea woman) and haenam (sea man) couple, we immediately booked it. This morning, as our host Jun prepared a delicious breakfast, we had the wonderful opportunity to learn about their lives. Traditionally, this was exclusively women’s work, and even today there are only a handful of male divers on Jeju. Jun never intended to become one, but he occasionally helped his wife and became so popular with the older haenyeo that they eventually persuaded him to join them. Unlike his wife, who attended a diving school, he learned on the job, under the watchful eyes of the older women, who affectionately scolded him whenever he got something wrong.

Apparently, being a haenam comes with some unique challenges. After a long day diving in cold water, the women head off for hot showers and a good chat, while Jun waits shivering outside because there are no men’s shower facilities. So much for breaking the glass ceiling!

As freedivers ourselves, we were fascinated by their techniques, which differ considerably from what we’ve learned in our certifications. We could have spent the entire morning asking questions. This conversation was unquestionably one of the highlights of our trip.

Eventually, we reluctantly tore ourselves away to explore Jeju’s spectacular volcanic landscapes. We started at Gwangchigi Beach, with its unusual volcanic rock formations, then climbed Seongsan Ilchulbong, an impressive volcanic crater rising from the sea. Next came a beautiful coastal walk at Seopjikoji, followed by a visit to Manjanggul Lava Tube. Lava tubes are underground tunnels left behind when flowing lava drains away beneath a hardened surface. This was only our second time exploring one, after visiting a lava tube on Hawaii’s Big Island.

Our culinary highlight was Jeju’s famous black pork, recommended by our friends Eric and Kye. As longtime fans of the black pork of southern Portugal and Spain, we were particularly eager to try the Korean version. The meal turned out to be almost a guided tasting experience. Our server expertly grilled thick pieces of pork at our table, then instructed us on how to enjoy each bite, gradually progressing from milder to bolder flavors: first just with salt and pepper, then wrapped in a perilla leaf, then paired with kimchi and radish, and so on. Once we’d completed our delicious little education, we were free to revisit our favorite combinations. What a fantastic meal, and what an unforgettable day!

• Black pork: Palmidonga Seongsan

Day 10: A disappearing tradition on Jeju Island

We simply couldn’t stop thinking about yesterday’s conversation with our host Jun. It was one of the most memorable experiences of our trip so far, but we still had so many questions! Fortunately, Jun had some time today, and we ended up spending several hours with him, getting even more immersed (pun intended!) in his fascinating world.

He showed us a small haenyeo museum he’s been putting together, filled with equipment donated by older divers who know to check with him before throwing anything away. We saw the evolution of their gear: clothing shifted from hand-sewn baggy swim costumes to modern neoprene wetsuits; buoys of hollowed-out gourds were replaced by styrofoam floats; and nets woven from local grasses were replaced by nylon. Jun’s collection even includes beautifully crafted baskets once used to keep babies warm and protected from the waves while their mothers dived. Many objects came with personal stories about their former owners, bringing this centuries-old tradition vividly to life.

But our conversation also took a heartbreaking turn. Jun described how dramatically the marine ecosystem has deteriorated during his diving career. Abalone, once abundant, have become almost impossible to find, partly because warming waters are destroying the seaweed forests they depend on. In 2016, UNESCO recognized Jeju’s haenyeo culture as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Yet Jun fears that within another five to ten years, there may be so little marine life left to harvest that the profession could disappear entirely. It was devastating to hear, and made us feel even more privileged to experience this remarkable living tradition firsthand, rather than learn about it only as history.

Eventually, we said goodbye to Jun and visited Yakcheonsa Temple, another excellent recommendation from our friends Eric and Kye. Although relatively modern, with its enormous main hall completed in the 1990s, the temple is magnificent. Its soaring architecture, elaborate Buddhist artwork, and impressive Buddha statues made it a wonderful final temple visit on Jeju.

Our culinary explorations continued with another Jeju specialty: grilled galchi (hairtail fish), served over crispy rice. The fish was absolutely delicious, with delicate, buttery flesh and a wonderfully mild flavor. For dessert, we sampled several varieties of Jeju-style tteok (rice cakes). We tried three kinds of omegi tteok, traditionally made with millet: one coated in red beans, the classic Jeju preparation; another in roasted soybean powder; and a third in crunchy seeds and nuts. We also discovered mandarin tteok, filled with fresh Jeju citrus and sweet red bean paste. We loved them all! Another delicious discovery to end an unforgettable day!

• Grilled galchi: Dambaekjungmoon
• Tteok: Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market

Day 11: Back to Seoul

After one last delicious breakfast prepared by our host, Jun, it was time to say goodbye. We were especially touched by his parting invitation. He encouraged us to bring our freediving equipment next time we visit Jeju and offered to take us to some of his favorite diving spots around the island. What an incredibly generous invitation! We were already sad to leave Jeju, and now we have an even better reason to return.

We then flew back to Seoul. For dinner, we enjoyed delicious dumplings and noodle soup at a popular, no-frills restaurant recommended by Eric and Kye. The restaurant has earned a Bib Gourmand distinction from the Michelin Guide Seoul, and we thought it was thoroughly deserved!

• Dumplings and noodle soup: Myeongdong Kyoja
• Accommodation: Hotel 28 Myeongdong

Day 12: Salt bread and rice cakes

On our last full day in Seoul, we set out to explore two Korean treats we’ve fallen in love with: salt bread and tteok (rice cakes). Both are readily available back home in Seattle, but the freshness and variety we’ve encountered here are on another level.

Salt bread is far more exciting than its name suggests. Imagine a golden, slightly crisp crust giving way to a soft, fluffy interior, rich with melted butter and just enough salt to balance it all. The butter pools at the bottom as the bread bakes, creating a wonderfully crisp, almost caramelized base. It’s dangerously addictive.

Artist Bakery is famous for its salt bread, so naturally, we had to make the pilgrimage. The bakery is incredibly popular, and deservedly so. Fresh batches emerge from the ovens throughout the day, and the selection goes well beyond the classic version: cream cheese and chives, pesto, squid ink, matcha, blueberry, and many more. Our favorites were garlic on the savory side and chocolate on the sweet side. The first bites literally gave us goosebumps. Yes, bread can be that good!

Next came tteok. Korea has an extraordinary tradition of rice cakes, with a seemingly endless variety of ingredients, textures, shapes, and preparations. Some are soft and fluffy, others dense and chewy; some are filled with fruit or sweet bean paste, while others showcase the subtle flavor of rice itself. We love them all and wanted to understand this delicious world a little better.

We visited four specialty shops, each with its own approach: Jaiso for modern fruit-filled rice cakes, Biwon Tteokjip for traditional royal-court recipes, HAAP Wonseo for creative interpretations of Korean confections, and Dongbyeong Sangryeon for its impressive variety of handcrafted traditional rice cakes. Don’t ask us to pick a favorite. Each offered something different, and we happily sampled our way through all four. Let’s just say we learned a great deal about Korean rice cakes, and even more about our capacity to eat them!

• Salt bread: Artist Bakery
• Rice cakes: Jaiso
• Rice cakes: Biwon Tteokjip
• Rice cakes: HAAP Wonseo
• Rice cakes: Dongbyeong Sangryeon

Day 13: One last shopping spree in Seoul

On our final morning in Seoul, we squeezed in a little more shopping in Myeongdong, the lively neighborhood where we were staying. Its bustling streets are packed with fashion boutiques, beauty stores, cafés, and tempting street-food stalls. There’s always something happening, and seemingly another interesting shop around every corner.

We were having such a good time exploring that we completely lost track of time and nearly missed our flight home. Apparently, we were so reluctant to leave South Korea that we almost made the decision involuntarily!