Baja

Day 1: Wind chill, food trucks, and bears (probably)

It feels absolutely great to finally hit the road again, this time by motorcycle!

Eric has been riding motorcycles for quite a while, but it wasn’t until our memorable motorcycle trip to British Columbia and the remote Haida Gwaii islands (Canada) back in 2016 that we both realized just how much we genuinely love it as a means for long-distance travel. There’s something about being completely exposed to the elements, feeling every curve in the road, and experiencing the landscape without the barrier of a car windshield that makes the journey itself as important as the destination. That trip exceeded our already high expectations so dramatically that we started planning another ambitious motorcycle trip almost immediately after we got back. Then, for many perfectly good reasons — weather, work, a global pandemic — we postponed it over and over and over. Until now! Finally!

Our first day went remarkably smoothly, which felt like a good omen. It was genuinely cold in the morning — under 40°F (4°C) when we left the house before sunrise — which feels considerably colder with the significant wind-chill factor at highway speeds. But the thick layers we were strategically wearing, coupled with heated grips and the encouraging promise of much warmer weather in the days ahead, kept us reasonably comfortable and motivated. We stopped in Portland for lunch at the Prost Marketplace food truck pod, and got great food from Fried Egg I’m in Love (an old favorite of ours that never disappoints) and Teppanyaki Hut (a new discovery that immediately earned a place on our favorites list). Food truck pods are such an obvious and brilliant idea — maximum variety, minimal commitment, excellent quality — why aren’t they absolutely everywhere? They should be.

We’re now staying in Grants Pass, Oregon, which we imagine has lots of bears based entirely on the frequent signs by the roadside warning about bears, and the extensive bear-themed decor in our cute and surprisingly comfy Airbnb cabin. We haven’t seen any actual bears yet, but the night is young and we’re keeping our food stored properly just in case.

• Lunch: Prost Marketplace — Fried Egg I’m in Love and Teppanyaki Hut
• Accommodation: Grants Pass Airbnb
• Riding distance: 421 miles (678 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 39F - 55F (4C - 13C)

Day 2: Fog, friendly motorcyclists, and a million dead bugs

When we departed Grants Pass this morning — no bears spotted, slightly disappointed — the temperature was just below freezing and there was a thick, almost ominous layer of fog dramatically limiting our visibility to maybe 50 feet ahead. It was genuinely tough to get going in those challenging conditions, both physically and mentally. But it wasn’t long before the sun heroically came out and started to warm us up significantly (we noticed a high of 75°F or 24°C today, which is a 44-degree temperature swing from morning to afternoon!). As we rode steadily south, the evergreen trees slowly gave way to rolling farmland, and eventually to palm trees, which always feels like crossing into a different world. We’ve followed this particular stretch of I-5 many times before over the years, but always by car (or camper van). Going by motorcycle makes a world of difference — we notice every single detail of this beautiful landscape, from the texture of the mountains to the way the light hits the fields. There’s no barrier between you and the scenery, for better or worse.

We must look like we’re on a serious adventure, because during rest stops, other motorcyclists always enthusiastically park next to us and ask us lots of questions. “Where are you riding to?” “How long will you be on the road?” “Is that thing comfortable?” Maybe it’s the fully loaded bike with panniers and gear strapped everywhere, or perhaps it’s the millions of dead bugs plastered impressively to our motorcycle gear that give it away. We’re basically wearing insect graveyards at this point. Whatever the telltale sign is, we’ve enjoyed the small talk and camaraderie. Motorcyclists are remarkably friendly people, and we’ve received plenty of helpful tips about the road ahead, including which gas stations to avoid and where to find good food.

We arrived in San Jose this evening, feeling tired but accomplished, and checked into our Airbnb. We’re staying right across the street from a convenient supermarket and within walking distance to several restaurants, which is exactly what we needed after a long day of riding.

This is our second day on the road, and we’ve already ridden 845 miles (1,360 km) so far. We’re averaging a respectable 45 miles per gallon, and we’ve been getting roughly 170 miles (290 km) per tank of gas on our trusty BMW F700 GS. These are the kinds of numbers that matter when you’re planning a 5,000-mile trip.

• Dinner: Vegetarian House
• Accommodation: San Jose Airbnb
• Riding distance: 424 miles (682 km)
• Riding conditions: foggy to partly cloudy, 31F - 75F (-1C - 24C)

Day 3: Ward joins the adventure (and we’re jealous of his bike)

Today we were joined by our good friend Ward, who lives in San Jose and had been eagerly awaiting our arrival. Ward is Eric’s best friend from college and, luckily for us, also loves to ride motorcycles with the same enthusiasm we do. A few years ago Ward came to visit us in Seattle and we had a fantastic time riding together through central Washington state and around the San Juan Islands. (This was back in the golden days when we had two motorcycles, and could easily lend one to visitors without anyone having to rent.) Since that trip, we often talked wistfully about going on another motorcycle adventure with Ward. Well, this is finally it! Dreams do come true, apparently.

Ward rides a brand new, all-black BMW F750 GS, which is essentially an evolution of our 7-year-old, well-traveled blue BMW F700 GS. His bike is objectively nicer and we want one — there’s really no other way of putting it without sounding jealous, which we absolutely are! We especially love the large built-in dashboard display that looks like it belongs in a spaceship, the integrated cruise-control (a game-changer on long highway stretches), and the overall sleek design of the bike. We also covet his redesigned Touratech side cases, which unlike ours cleverly wrap around the exhaust and as a result have significantly more storage space. We could always use more space for snacks and gear!

After two solid days of relentless highway riding on I-5 — which is efficient but not particularly scenic or exciting — today we decided to take route 101 for a much-needed change of pace and scenery. We had lunch at Taste, a restaurant and bar in the quaint town of Paso Robles, with a nice outdoor patio space and awesome sliders and fresh salads. We then rode by the Pacific Ocean for a while, enjoying the coastal views and the smell of salt air, and ended up in Ventura, where we’re staying for the night. We picked up dinner from VenTiki, a restaurant and lounge with pretty good Hawaiian food that satisfied our post-ride hunger.

So far, we’ve already ridden 1,152 miles (1,854 km) in just 3 days, which is starting to feel like a real achievement. We’ve been intentionally covering a lot of ground in these first few days because we want to leave considerably more time to explore the areas that are new to us, particularly once we cross into Mexico. Today the bike’s thermometer hit a low of 48°F (9°C) and a high of 75°F (24°C) — quite a wide range to experience in a single day, but a welcome and noticeable increase in morning temperature compared to yesterday’s below-freezing start!

• Lunch: Taste! Craft eatery
• Dinner: VenTiki
• Accommodation: Ventura Airbnb
• Riding distance: 307 miles (494 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 48F - 75F (9C - 24C)

Day 4: LA traffic, bureaucratic forms, and Athena the tour guide

We are in Mexico! Yay! This is the moment we’ve been planning for and riding toward!

We had an early start today and rode along scenic route 101 to LA, where we endured quintessential LA traffic for what felt like hours but was probably less. That’s an experience we could do without. There’s something particularly frustrating about being stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic on a motorcycle, where you can’t even enjoy the comfort of air conditioning or a good podcast. We then switched back to the more efficient I-5, and reached San Diego, where we met friends Adam and Alex for a fun lunch and some final American food before the border. We headed east from San Diego, strategically bypassing the notoriously larger and slower border crossing at Tijuana, and crossed at Tecate instead — a decision we’d highly recommend to anyone making this trip.

The border crossing was mostly smooth, with one small hiccup. The online system for ordering FMM visitor permits had mysteriously only worked for one of us (technology being technology), so the other two had to fill out the forms manually and pay in person while standing in line. But all told it only took us about 20 minutes, which felt like a minor miracle given our expectations. We then headed south into Baja’s wine country, which immediately felt different — more relaxed, more authentic, more adventurous. Highway 3 from Tecate to Guadalupe was in excellent condition, surprisingly well-maintained, and we made good time despite some scenic distractions. Once we got to town, we had to navigate narrow dirt roads that were delightfully rutted and muddy from today’s rain showers — which was absolutely perfect for our adventure bikes, and honestly so much fun! This is what adventure bikes are made for.

Arriving at our Airbnb, we were immediately greeted by Athena, quite possibly the friendliest dog in all of Mexico. She enthusiastically toured the entire property with us as we explored the beautiful villa we’re staying in, the vineyards right next to it, and the fruit orchard in the back. Our villa is perfect in every way — it’s charming and comfortable, with rustic details that feel authentic rather than staged, and every single room has views of gently rolling hills completely covered in orderly vineyards! It’s the kind of place you see in travel magazines and assume must be photoshopped.

Today was noticeably colder than yesterday, and it was our first rainy day on this trip. Thankfully all our gear is properly waterproof — we tested it thoroughly — so a few rain showers don’t bother us. It’s actually raining considerably harder now that we’ve settled in for the evening, which might make the dirt roads even more interesting tomorrow… we’ll see. We’re so glad to finally be in Mexico now, and super excited about the days ahead!

• Breakfast: Cafe Nouveau
• Lunch: Hash House A Go Go
• Accommodation: Guadalupe Airbnb
• Riding distance: 283 miles (455 km)
• Riding conditions: occasional showers, 45F - 62F (7C - 17C)

Day 5: Mud, uncomfortable smiles, and a fish taco revelation

We both woke up in the middle of the night to the dramatic sound of pouring rain and rumbling thunder, immediately feeling profoundly thankful that we weren’t currently riding through a downpour on muddy roads. There’s nothing quite like being warm and dry in bed while listening to a storm outside. We took our time getting ready in the morning because the Airbnb was so pleasant and comfortable that we were reluctant to leave, but eventually we got hungry enough that we had to get on the bikes to go for breakfast. Well, brunch, by the time we finally motivated ourselves to leave. That meant we had to tackle the 2.5 mile (4 km) dirt road from our villa back to the main road, which was now considerably more muddy and treacherous than it had been yesterday. The overnight rain had transformed it into something resembling a slip-and-slide. We’ve gotten pretty good at riding two-up on challenging dirt roads over the years, with both of us standing up on the pegs to better absorb the bumps and maintain balance, so it wasn’t too tough. Mostly.

We did, however, get absolutely covered in mud from riding through several sections of the road that were completely flooded with murky water. When we finally arrived at the restaurant, we had thick mud splattered impressively all over our riding gear, our helmets, and probably our faces. Our waitress took one good long look at us, smiled uncomfortably in that polite way that clearly said “oh dear,” and graciously escorted us to a table in the far corner of the back room of the restaurant, as far away from other diners as physically possible. Quite understandable, and honestly we were grateful for the discretion. We looked like we’d been mud wrestling.

The road from Guadalupe to San Quintin was great once we got through busy Ensenada, which took longer than we’d hoped. Highway 1 wound its way through beautiful forested hills and dramatically along the coast — it was pure motorcycling perfection! Sweeping curves, stunning views, minimal traffic. This is exactly what we came for. We arrived at our next Airbnb in plenty of time to unload the bikes, clean off some of the dried mud, and head out to a highly-recommended local taco stand. After that meal, we made an important decision: we’re going to be on a fish taco diet from here on out… they were that good! Fresh fish, perfectly seasoned, homemade tortillas, and some kind of magical sauce we couldn’t identify. We’re not exaggerating when we say these were some of the best tacos we’ve ever had.

• Brunch: Meson Leonardo’s
• Dinner: Mariscos Satos
• Accommodation: San Quintin Airbnb
• Riding distance: 130 miles (209 km)
• Riding conditions: overcast, 58F - 64F (14C - 18C)

Day 6: Desert dreams, cowboy gas stations, and extra-premium prices

While we were planning this trip months ago in rainy Seattle, we often dreamed of one specific idyllic moment: motorcycling on a warm sunny day along a smoothly paved road that winds through rolling hills populated with cacti of all shapes and sizes. Well, that was most of the day today, and it exceeded even our optimistic expectations! The desert plants are downright exotic for us, after living so long among the evergreen forests of the Pacific Northwest. We’re talking towering cardon cacti that look like something from a cartoon, sprawling cholla gardens, and barrel cacti scattered across the landscape. Every turn revealed something new and otherworldly.

Filling up on gas turned into an interesting and slightly sketchy experience. We knew ahead of time that neither Ward’s motorcycle nor ours has a big enough gas tank to comfortably make it 200 miles, which happens to be the longest distance between official gas stations on our route for today. Fortunately, there are enterprising individuals who set up improvised road-side stands to sell gasoline where the large fuel companies do not. We bought a few critical liters of gas from one of these resourceful vendors in Cataviña — a fellow in authentic cowboy boots and a well-worn cowboy hat who happily and confidently funneled plastic jugs of (supposedly) premium gas into our bikes for extra-premium prices. We had no way to verify the quality or octane rating, but we didn’t have many options. Anyway, it did the trick and we made it out of the desert alive and with functioning engines, which was ultimately the goal.

We’ve covered a lot of ground at this point — we’ve ridden 1,839 miles (2,960 km) so far in just six days. Our legs are tired and our backs are slightly sore, so we’ve decided to take a well-deserved day off from riding tomorrow and actually explore the area around Guerrero Negro at a slower pace. Rest days are important on long trips like this.

• Dinner: Mario’s restaurant
• Accommodation: Guerrero Negro Airbnb
• Riding distance: 274 miles (441 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 52F - 77F (11C - 25C)

Day 7: Whale kisses, blowhole showers, and minds officially blown

Our minds are completely blown from our whale watching tour today! We actually touched a gray whale! Multiple gray whales, in fact! And Bea even got to kiss one (with Eric’s explicit permission, of course)!

Nearly all the gray whales in the world — we’re talking about thousands of these magnificent creatures — migrate from their summer feeding waters near Alaska all the way down to the warm, protected lagoons of Baja during the winter months to mate and give birth to their babies. It’s one of the longest mammal migrations on Earth. Today we visited one of these special lagoons, where there are so many gray whales that at times our little boat was surrounded by 5 or 6 of these huge animals. It was surreal and slightly intimidating in the best possible way.

The juvenile whales were especially curious and playful, and they repeatedly nudged our boat and surfaced right alongside it to interact with us, almost like puppies seeking attention. It was amazing to reach out and touch such enormous animals — their skin feels rubbery and smooth, and they seem to enjoy the interaction as much as we did. Whenever they opened their mouths, we got a close-up view of the baleen plates they use to filter food from the mud and silt of the ocean floor. The baleen looks almost like a giant comb made of keratin, the same material as our fingernails.

At one particularly memorable point, a whale exhaled forcefully from its blowhole right in our faces, and we were absolutely drenched by the spray, which we later learned is a mixture of water and mucus. Sounds gross, but we didn’t mind a bit. It’s not every day you get showered by a whale! Our guide assured us it was a sign of affection, though we suspect he might have been making that up.

When we returned to town, still buzzing with excitement and smelling vaguely of ocean, we visited Tacos El Muelle, a legendary taco truck known throughout the region for its incredible fish and shrimp tacos. What an absolutely awesome way to wrap up a great day! We’re still processing the fact that we interacted so closely with whales. Life is weird and wonderful.

• Tour: Mario’s Tours
• Dinner: Tacos El Muelle

Day 8: Spanish missions, beach fantasies, and the Gulf at last

Today we got back on the motorcycles to cross the Baja Peninsula from west to east, which felt good after a day of rest. Along the way, we stopped at San Ignacio, a cute little town with an impressive ancient Spanish mission church overlooking the central plaza. The church dates back to 1728 and features walls that are several feet thick to withstand earthquakes. The town somehow maintains its authentic charm despite being a regular stop for big tour buses full of tourists, and it was a great place to take a quick break, stretch our legs, and grab some cold water. We pressed on after a short rest, eager to get our first glimpse of the Gulf of California (also known as the Sea of Cortez) that dramatically separates Baja from the rest of Mexico.

As we rode south along the coast, we saw one beautiful beach after another, with white sand stretching endlessly to the deep blue sea. The views were stunning — the kind that make you want to stop every five minutes to take photos, though we resisted the urge most of the time. Many of the beaches are populated with RVs of all shapes and sizes, and we’ve heard from multiple sources that you can survive and thrive quite nicely there — vendors regularly come around selling fresh food, cold water, propane, and anything else that’s needed. It’s like a mobile village that forms along the beach. We’re not really prepared to camp on the beach during this particular trip since we’re on motorcycles with limited space, but we’d love to come back with a camper van on another trip and spend some quality time relaxing at one of these remote beaches. It looks like paradise.

• Lunch: Mariscos Peralta
• Accommodation: Loreto Airbnb
• Riding distance: 259 miles (417 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 51F - 82F (11C - 28C)

Day 9: Civilian clothes, baroque churches, and well-earned rest

This was the first day of our trip that we didn’t have to put on our “super suits” (our affectionate nickname for our bulky motorcycle gear), and instead got to wear our “civilian clothes” all day. It was genuinely liberating to put on normal jeans and a t-shirt! We left the bikes parked at our Airbnb and walked to the historic center of Loreto, where we met Juve, our guide for the day and a local expert on the area’s history. After receiving some fascinating historical context about Loreto’s significance as the first Spanish settlement in California (which at the time included all of Baja), we piled into a comfortable van and headed into the hills along a dramatically winding road that leads to San Javier.

This tiny remote town of about 300 people is known primarily for its impressive Jesuit mission church, which was completed in 1757 after years of construction. The Jesuit missionaries — and later, Franciscan and Dominican missionaries who took over after the Jesuits were expelled from New Spain — came all the way from Spain with the ambitious goal of converting the local indigenous tribes to Catholicism. They left behind an impressive legacy of beautiful churches strategically spaced roughly one day’s walking distance apart along El Camino Real, a trail that once stretched from here in Loreto all the way to the San Francisco area in California. That’s an incredibly long chain of missions. The San Javier mission is particularly well-preserved considering its age and remote location, and it’s picturesquely surrounded by lush orchards and small farms that are still worked by descendants of the original families. Its intricately carved stone exterior illustrates a unique and fascinating blend of baroque European style with local Mexican symbols and indigenous artistic influences.

As much as we like to ride motorcycles, it was nice — necessary, even — to take a full-day break after covering 2,098 miles (3,376 km) of riding in just nine days. Our bodies appreciated the rest, and we’re feeling refreshed and ready to do some more riding tomorrow.

• Lunch: La Palapa
• Dinner: Buena Vida
• Tour: Loreto Sea and Land Tours

Day 10: Cardon forests, taco connoisseurship, and stingray supremacy

We’re back on the road, refreshed and ready. On the way out of Loreto, we made a quick but worthwhile stop at Mirador Frida, 13 miles (21 km) south of town, specifically for its beautiful panoramic view of the Gulf of California and the nearby islands scattered across the water. Soon after that scenic stop, the highway veers decisively inland, and we traded coastal views for endless plains of dormant desert plants and impressive forests of cardon cactus. The cardon variety of cactus is the tallest in the world — they can grow up to 60 feet (18 meters) tall — and though they look superficially similar to the saguaro cacti found in the Sonora desert, cardon cacti actually grow more branches and hold them considerably closer to the main trunk. It’s like the difference between a person with their arms spread wide versus someone with their arms at their sides. Once you know what to look for, you can’t unsee the difference.

We rode 230 miles today, stopping only briefly to get gas and eat our carefully rationed snacks. We arrived at our very nice Airbnb in La Paz by mid-afternoon, with plenty of time to unload the bikes, take proper showers, and go out for tacos in town. Priorities.

Let’s talk tacos for a moment, because this is important. We’re becoming genuine taco connoisseurs, if we may say so ourselves without sounding too pretentious. We started conservatively with the omni-present fish tacos (which are excellent and a safe choice), but have since boldly branched out to shrimp, scallop, octopus, marlin, and even stingray tacos. There are still so many different kinds that we want to try before this trip is over! All the tacos we’ve had so far have been outstanding without exception, but the stingray ones are surprisingly our favorites. They have a unique texture and flavor that’s hard to describe but impossible to forget. We’re inspired to add some new flavors and techniques to our own Taco Tuesdays (which, let’s be honest, sometimes happen on Wednesdays or Thursdays depending on our schedules) back home in Seattle.

• Dinner: Tacos Los Claros
• Accommodation: La Paz Airbnb
• Riding distance: 230 miles (370 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 64F - 81F (18C - 27C)

Day 11: Aquamarine perfection, swimming with Santiago, and kicked hard

We started the day with a short but scenic motorcycle ride along the coast of the peninsula that juts out dramatically north of La Paz into the Gulf of California, headed for a remote beach called Playa Balandra. We enjoyed getting away from the bustling tourism of the city and visiting a pristine natural environment, but let’s be honest — we mainly went for the colors. The bright white of the sand, the aquamarine of the shallow water, and the navy blue of the deeper water. They absolutely didn’t disappoint! The beach looks like it was designed by someone with a Pantone color book and unlimited budget.

In the afternoon, we went out in a small boat with a marine biologist guide to find and swim with whale sharks, which was simultaneously thrilling and slightly terrifying. These animals are the biggest sharks (and the biggest fish) in the world, and can grow to an impressive 60 feet (18 meters) in length. That’s longer than a school bus, just to put it in perspective. The one we swam with near La Paz was technically a juvenile, and though it was “only” 15 feet (4.6 meters) long, it still seemed huge when we were right next to it in the water! It swam surprisingly quickly and gracefully, and we had to kick hard to keep up, which was exhausting but exhilarating. We learned from our knowledgeable biologist guide that each individual whale shark can be identified by its unique pattern of spots and stripes — kind of like fingerprints — and she immediately recognized the one we swam with as a male named Santiago. We felt honored to meet Santiago personally.

We finished the day with a pleasant walk along the waterfront malecon, stopping for more tacos and well-deserved margaritas at our new favorite restaurant. We’re starting to have multiple favorite restaurants in La Paz, which says something about this city.

• Dinner: Tacos Los Claros
• Tour: Mexplore
• Riding distance: 35 miles (57 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 60F - 74F (16C - 23C)

Day 12: We made it! Seattle to Cabo by motorcycle!

We did it! We actually made it from Seattle to Cabo San Lucas by motorcycle! 2 bikes, 3 people, more than 2,500 miles (4,000 km) on the road through two countries, and so many genuinely memorable experiences along the way! Zero incidents as well, which is just as important as reaching our destination. We are so incredibly proud of our achievement and feeling a bit emotional about it, to be honest. This was years in the making, postponed multiple times, and we finally did it. Sometimes dreams actually do come true if you’re persistent enough.

• Breakfast: El Café de Don Armando
• Lunch: Che Rios Seafood
• Accommodation: Cabo San Lucas Airbnb
• Riding distance: 139 miles (224 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 72F - 88F (22C - 31C)

Day 13: Cooking class, whale songs, and the tourist side of Baja

Cabo San Lucas is the polar opposite of everything we’ve seen of Baja so far, and the contrast is striking: our broken Spanish isn’t needed here at all; Uber is readily available to take us where we want to go; and there’s non-stop traffic everywhere in town, along with spring breakers and cruise ship tourists. It feels more like a generic beach resort destination than the authentic Mexico we’ve been experiencing. Despite that somewhat jarring transition, we found interesting things to do.

We took a cooking class, where we learned the proper techniques for making fish tacos from scratch, including homemade tortillas (which require more arm strength than you’d think), fresh guacamole, and multiple types of salsa. It turns out we’ve been doing several things wrong at home, and we’re excited to improve our taco game based on what we learned today. And we went out in a small boat at sunset to see El Arco de Cabo — the famous natural arch rock formation at the tip of the Baja peninsula. The golden hour light made it spectacular.

From the boat, we spotted several groups of humpback whales in the distance, including some of them dramatically breaching and crashing back into the water. Our enthusiastic marine biologist guide explained that these groups typically consist of a mother, a baby, and an unrelated “escort” whale that accompanies them for protection and assistance. This escort isn’t necessarily the baby’s father — it’s simply another whale, male or female, that helps the mother raise and defend the child. It’s basically the whale version of “it takes a village.” We also learned that male humpback whales compose elaborate songs that are used to attract a mate, and these songs can be impressively long — as long as 20 minutes — and repeated over and over for many hours. That’s dedication to the craft.

To illustrate this remarkable behavior, our guide dropped a hydrophone into the water, and we got to hear the actual mating song of a male humpback whale echoing through the depths! It was haunting and beautiful and completely unlike anything we’d ever heard before. How cool! It’s moments like this that make all the miles of riding completely worth it.

• Cooking class: Cabo San Lucas Cooking Experience with Market Tour
• Whale watching sunset cruise: CaboTrek

Day 14: Hidden gems, perfect Airbnbs, and tiny turtle heroes

Today’s ride was a short one, which felt like a welcome change of pace after so many long riding days. We moved from the bustling, somewhat overwhelming tourist city of Cabo San Lucas to the considerably more quaint and artsy town of Todos Santos. We stopped along the way at Same Same But Different Cafe, which turned out to be an absolute hidden gem in the middle of nowhere — seriously, you’d never expect to find a place this good in such a remote location. The food, the vibe, the setting… everything was perfect.

We arrived at our Airbnb in the early afternoon, and immediately fell in love with the place. It’s got fantastic modern design with thoughtful local rustic touches, and beautiful decor that manages to be both stylish and comfortable. It’s probably our favorite stay of the entire trip so far, which is saying something given the competition. We quickly changed into our beloved civilian clothes and headed for the beach on foot, enjoying the freedom of walking without motorcycle boots.

We spent most of the afternoon contentedly walking along the shore, spotting whales breaching in the distance (we’re getting spoiled by all these whale sightings), and enjoying the deeply relaxing sound of waves crashing rhythmically on the beach. There’s something meditative about beach walking that no other activity quite captures.

We strategically timed our walk to end up around sunset at Tortugueros Las Playitas, a sanctuary for baby sea turtles that’s doing important conservation work. Dedicated volunteers there collect sea turtle eggs from the beach and carefully incubate them in a protected shelter, so they won’t get scavenged by predators like birds and crabs. After about eight weeks of patient waiting, baby turtles emerge from the eggs, and the staff releases the tiny hatchlings near the ocean at sunset. We watched as several tiny Olive Ridley turtles were released into the wild, and they instinctively scrambled across the sand to reach the water as fast as their little flippers could carry them. It was both adorable and poignant.

Only a heartbreakingly small percentage of baby turtles survive to adulthood — something like 1 in 1,000 make it — so every little bit of help makes a real difference. We hope the turtles we saw tonight will beat the odds and survive and thrive! We’re rooting for you, little guys.

• Lunch: Same Same But Different Cafe
• Dinner: 5 Tacos and a Beer
• Turtle release: Tortugueros Las Playitas
• Accommodation: Todos Santos Airbnb
• Riding distance: 47 miles (76 km)
• Riding conditions: partly cloudy, 74F - 77F (23C - 25C)

Day 15: Art galleries, Hotel California mysteries, and earned relaxation

On today’s agenda: walk leisurely into town, wander the charming streets of Todos Santos at a relaxed pace, check out the numerous art galleries, have some street food, and generally enjoy a relaxing day without any pressure or schedule. Mission accomplished!

Todos Santos has a long and interesting history, first as a Catholic mission established in the 1700s, later as a prosperous center for sugar cane exports, and more recently as a home to many artists and a destination for surfers seeking consistent waves. There are certainly plenty of tourists here — it’s become quite popular — but it has a considerably better vibe than Cabo San Lucas. More authentic, less commercialized, more artistic. We walked up and down several streets lined with quaint colonial-era buildings painted in cheerful colors and filled with restaurants, art galleries, and souvenir shops. Every art gallery we entered was a welcome break from the glaring heat of the sun, and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing the impressive photography, ceramics, graphic art, paintings, and jewelry made by talented local artists. The variety and quality surprised us.

We also stopped for a look inside the famous Hotel California — rumored to be the inspiration for the iconic song of the same name by the Eagles, though both the band and the hotel management consistently deny any such connection. The mystery remains unsolved, but it doesn’t stop tourists from taking photos outside. We may have taken one ourselves.

• Breakfast: Shakti Bowl
• Lunch: Tacos La Paceña
• Dinner: Poke Loko
• Graphic art: La Sonrisa De La Muerte Gallery
• Photography: Gallery Pablo Marquez
• Paintings: Gabo Art Gallery
• Paintings: AR Gallery

Day 16: Heading north, punishing heat, and the comfort of familiar places

Today we started the long journey north toward home, which feels both exciting and bittersweet. Though we absolutely love to explore new places and discover unexpected things, in some ways it’s comforting to return along the same route — we get to ride along a familiar road where we know what to expect, eat at a restaurant where we’ve already had great food and know what to order, and stay in the same Airbnb as before. There’s something reassuring about retracing your steps.

As we rode through the interior of the Baja peninsula, we got a powerful hint of the punishing heat of the desert, with temperatures climbing to a sweltering 94°F (34°C). At highway speeds, the wind felt like a hair dryer blasting in our faces. But soon enough, the road began to twist and turn dramatically on its way through the mountains just before reaching the east coast. We descended along a winding road with spectacular views down to the deep blue waters of the Gulf of California, and followed the coast a short distance to our destination of Loreto. The temperature dropped noticeably as we approached the water, which was a relief.

Walking around Loreto this afternoon with fresh eyes, we discovered cute parts of town that we didn’t get a chance to see when we were here earlier in the trip. It’s a great little seaside town with character and charm, and we would love to return sometime for a longer stay to properly explore the area!

• Dinner: Buena Vida
• Accommodation: Loreto Airbnb
• Riding distance: 269 miles (433 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 72F - 94F (22C - 34C)

Day 17: Bahía Concepción perfection, more tacos, and a sunset reward

We really enjoyed today’s ride. The route treated us to absolutely spectacular scenery, first winding through cactus-covered foothills and then hugging the gorgeous coast of Bahía Concepción. Along this bay we saw so many perfect white sand beaches with crystal clear turquoise water that we lost count. It’s easy to understand why there were so many RVs parked contentedly on the beaches — if we had a camper van, we’d probably never leave. The setting is that beautiful.

We stopped in the adorable town of Mulegé for a lunch of delicious shrimp tacos (yes, again — we’re not even remotely tired of them), and went to see the old mission church perched on a hill overlooking the town. The rest of the ride was scenic too, crossing seemingly endless plains sprinkled generously with towering cardon cacti as far as the eye could see. We arrived in Guerrero Negro just as the sun was setting, giving us a dramatic sky painted in oranges and purples as a perfect reward for all our riding today.

• Lunch: Antojitos Mexicanos Zuria
• Accommodation: Guerrero Negro Airbnb
• Riding distance: 259 miles (417 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 63F - 88F (17C - 31C)

Day 18: Cactus fields, cowboy gas again, and the motorcycle pilgrimage site

We experienced more stunning scenery today, riding through impressive cardon cactus fields that extend as far as the eye can see in every direction. Near the town of Cataviña, the vegetation becomes lush and diverse, if that’s even a word that can be accurately used to describe a desert landscape. There are so many different varieties of cacti — short and tall, round and columnar, in all shades of green from lime to deep forest — thriving and growing out of every bit of parched, rocky soil. It’s genuinely beautiful, in its own thorny, inhospitable way.

This particular stretch of Baja is pretty remote and sparsely populated, and just like on the way south two weeks ago, there aren’t nearly enough official gas stations to keep our bikes going. So once again we got our tanks filled at an unofficial “gasolina” stand by our entrepreneurial Mexican friend — the one with the iconic cowboy hat and cowboy boots who we met on the way down. He recognized us and seemed pleased to see us again. Our northward journey up the Baja peninsula definitely seems much easier than the southbound direction — we know exactly where to stop for gas, where to find bathrooms, where there’s shade for a snack stop, and which road hazards to watch out for. Experience makes everything smoother.

In the afternoon, we stopped for a late lunch at Mamá Espinosa, a legendary and popular hangout spot for anyone exploring Baja by motorcycle. We had been earnestly warned by several other motorcycle riders that “our bike would never let us live it down” if we missed it, so we had to give it a go. That’s some serious peer pressure. And we’re genuinely glad we did! The food was great, and the extensive motorcycle memorabilia covering the walls made us feel instantly welcome. By now our motorcycle “super suits” have all turned into various shades of dusty beige and brown, and we’re fully aware that our scruffy appearance isn’t ideal for most restaurants. So the fact that Mamá Espinosa was so welcoming to us dusty, tired riders is very much appreciated. This is clearly a place that understands the motorcycle community.

• Lunch: Mamá Espinosa
• Accommodation: San Quintin Airbnb
• Riding distance: 274 miles (441 km)
• Riding conditions: sunny, 56F - 86F (13C - 30C)

Day 19: Wine country reunion, farm-to-table bliss, and Athena’s welcome

We had a short ride today, taking us through the busy and slightly chaotic traffic of Ensenada and back to the Guadalupe wine valley that we enjoyed so much on the way south. It felt like returning to an old friend. Because we started early and made good time, we had plenty of time to try one of the excellent restaurants of this area that we’d heard about but didn’t have a chance to visit before.

We absolutely loved our lunch at Finca Altozano, where we had a fabulous farm-to-table meal on a beautiful patio overlooking the surrounding vineyards. Everything was fresh, local, and perfectly prepared. The setting was so pleasant and the food so good that we ended up staying several hours, just relaxing and soaking it all in! It’s amazing what happens when you’re not in a rush — time seems to expand.

After our long and thoroughly relaxing lunch, we rode along the rough dirt roads of the town to get to the same charming Airbnb that we stayed in two weeks ago. Athena, the ultra-friendly dog who stole our hearts last time, greeted us enthusiastically again as we arrived at the cottage nestled in the middle of a vineyard. She remembered us! It feels good to be back in this tranquil spot, surrounded by vines and mountains.

• Lunch: Finca Altozano
• Accommodation: Guadalupe Airbnb
• Riding distance: 136 miles (219 km)
• Riding conditions: partly cloudy, 63F - 83F (17C - 28C)

Day 20: Border crossing victory, carpool lanes, and bittersweet farewells to Mexico

We’re back in the United States! We were a bit sad to leave Mexico, especially because we spent last night in a beautiful Airbnb surrounded by a stunning landscape of vineyards and mountains. Baja has been incredible to us. But it certainly feels comforting to be back in our own country, where we can read all the signs and understand all the conversations around us.

The border crossing couldn’t have gone smoother — it was almost suspiciously easy. There was a long, intimidating line of cars waiting to go through customs, but motorcycles are allowed to go straight to the front, which felt a bit like cheating but we’ll take it. We didn’t have to wait more than a few minutes. We’re sure it helped that we crossed on a weekday morning rather than a weekend, and that we went through the smaller Tecate crossing rather than the notoriously busy Tijuana one. As an additional bonus, the road from Tecate to San Diego is a fun, twisty winding road with beautiful scenery that’s actually enjoyable to ride.

The rest of the ride also went surprisingly well. We managed to get through Los Angeles without getting stuck in terrible rush hour traffic — the carpool lanes definitely helped a lot, and we were grateful for California’s motorcycle-friendly lane filtering laws. And once we got past LA’s sprawl, we enjoyed riding the scenic Pacific Coast Highway (Route 1) along the beautiful beaches from Santa Monica to Ventura, where we’re staying tonight. The ocean views were spectacular, and it felt good to be riding along the coast again.

• Lunch: Rosewood Kitchen
• Dinner: Lure Fish House
• Accommodation: Ventura Airbnb
• Riding distance: 299 miles (481 km)
• Riding conditions: partly cloudy, 56F - 70F (13C - 26C)

Day 21: California’s vastness, well-named restaurants, and Ward’s finish line

California is big… really big. Like, surprisingly big when you’re riding a motorcycle through it. We rode all day at highway speeds and still covered less than half the length of the state. But we made good time despite the distance, and got to San Jose well before sunset, which felt like a small victory. The weather was overcast and quite windy today, which made for more challenging and chilly riding conditions. It’s a big change from the warm sunshine of Baja! We found ourselves missing those 80-degree days already.

We had two memorable meals today that kept our spirits up. Mid-morning we stopped in Paso Robles, and had an excellent brunch at a place called (appropriately and perfectly enough) Brunch. The name is straightforward and honest, and so was the food — delicious. And once we arrived in San Jose, feeling accomplished but tired, we went to Pizza Bocca Lupo at the hip and crowded San Pedro Square Market, where we celebrated our riding accomplishment with Ward over well-deserved pizza. Ward lives in San Jose, so his ride is officially complete — he made it! We’re happy for him, but also a bit envious. Meanwhile, we will keep riding for a couple more days to get back to Seattle. The end is in sight, but we’re not quite there yet.

• Brunch: Brunch
• Dinner: Pizza Bocca Lupo
• Accommodation: San Jose Airbnb
• Riding distance: 307 miles (494 km)
• Riding conditions: mostly cloudy, 50F - 63F (10C - 17C)

Day 22: Stuffed sausages, roadside jumping jacks, and winter’s return

The riding was genuinely tough today — probably the hardest day of the entire trip. The temperatures hovered stubbornly between a freezing 35°F (2°C) and a barely-better 45°F (7°C) most of the day, and there was actual snow piled up by the roadside near a couple of mountain passes. Winter had definitely returned. We knew ahead of time we’d be riding in the cold, so we wore lots of warm and windproof layers — so many layers that we felt like stuffed sausages and could barely bend our arms. Even with all those layers strategically arranged, we got uncomfortably cold after just an hour or two of riding at highway speeds, with the wind chill making it feel even worse.

We stopped more frequently than the bike needed for gas, just so we could warm up by doing some jumping jacks and other embarrassing exercises in rest area parking lots. (There’s nothing odd about two people in supersuits jumping up and down enthusiastically by the side of the road, right? The other travelers definitely didn’t stare at us. Much.)

In any case, the cold didn’t stop us from enjoying the beautiful landscape, and we felt accomplished when we reached our familiar Airbnb in Grants Pass before sunset. We’d come full circle. All in all, despite the cold, it was a good day.

• Lunch: The Hive
• Accommodation: Grants Pass Airbnb
• Riding distance: 424 miles (682 km)
• Riding conditions: mostly cloudy, 35F - 50F (2C - 10C)

Day 23: Mission accomplished! 5,400 miles and we made it home!

Mission accomplished! We did it! We motorcycled from Seattle to Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, and all the way back to Seattle! It feels surreal to be home after three weeks on the road.

Our original ambitious plan included just over 5,000 miles (8,000 km) of riding, but when we include all our spontaneous side trips and detours, we actually rode more than 5,400 miles (8,700 km) in total. To put that in perspective: if we had done a one-way trip, our riding distance would be equivalent to riding from London to Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia! Or to look at it another way, it’s the same mileage from Prudhoe Bay (the northernmost town you can drive to in Alaska) to Key West (the southernmost town you can drive to in Florida). It was genuinely a long ride, and we have the sore muscles to prove it.

We feel extremely proud of ourselves for overcoming all the challenges involved in planning and executing this trip. There are a million things that could have gone wrong — mechanical failures, accidents, bad weather, getting sick, border complications, you name it. Happily and somewhat miraculously, the first aid kit and the extensive tool kit were among the very few things we packed but never actually used. We’re incredibly thankful that Eric’s friend Ward could join us for most of the journey and make it even more memorable, and we’re so glad the trip went according to plan. Years of postponing, weeks of preparation, and finally — we did it!

• Lunch: Shalom Y’all
• Riding distance: 420 miles (676 km)
• Riding conditions: Foggy and freezing at first, then partly cloudy; 30F - 56F (-1C - 13C)